Safely on terra firma in Gibraltar, we crossed the border into Spain to collect our hire car and onward to the largest of the so-called pueblos blancos (white villages), Arcos de la Frontera,
with castle and church up on the hill, and the village tumbling down to the river
along steep narrow white-washed streets.
Our own little rented house was a quiet place, with one bedroom and a kitchen-diner gving way to a charming little courtyard (which was nominally shared but we had all to ourselves save for our hosts' Spanish water-dog and cat with the world's loudest purr)
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