Day 49 - Namib Naukluft : GT to Daan Viljoen (10/11)

Awake at dawn. Warm morning but again not much sign of life despite all the noise during the night and some tell-tale footprints  We bid a nostalgic farewell to GT and stop off at a spot called Gemsbokswater where a water pump has been installed to sustain the wildlife.  As ever, our arrival signals (in fact, before we even arrive) a hysterical panicking stampeding exodus of a huge herd of oryx, springbok, what look like hartebeest - less so the slightly braver zebs who go least far away and are first back at the waterhole. Very gradually everyone else edge back (apart from the hartebeest who must have run too far).  We've time though so we wait and watch for a good while over an 11sies flask of coffee

Hilly rollercoaster road back towards Windhoek, with views over green and rocky hills. And barely another vehicle (two in five hours!). We picnic at the Bosua Pass and eventually (after a slow and bumpy stony road) arrive at the Daan Viljoen Reserve just outside town, for the luxury of a nice hot shower and dinner cooked by someone else for a change. Though, just in case it feels too normal, there are warthogs snuffling outside our car