Tuesday 23 September 2014

Day 1 - First impressions of Kigali, Rwanda (23/9)

To start - a few stats and impressions of Rwanda...

[1] It lies just south of the equator, bordered by Uganda, Tanzania, Burundi, and the DRC - an old version of a guide-book which we looked out suggested a day-trip across the border in Goma but these days the FCO warns in no uncertain terms that it's not a great idea!

[2] A law was passed in 2008 making non-biodegradable polythene bags illegal.  We'd been warned about bag searches and confiscation of plastic at Kigali Airport but in fact no such thing occurred.  The city is very tidy and clean though - every last Saturday of the month, there's compulsory pitching in (including the President apparently) to clean up the streets ("umuganda" - "getting together") and it really shows.  Only disagreeable thing is that it's very fume-y, mainly from the dozens of motorcycle taxis which buzz about carrying passengers (wearing his'n'his/her helmets)


[3] 2012 population estimate was c11.6m (43% under 17, 97.5% under 65) and population density is amongst the highest in Africa (408 per sq.km.)
And I imagine a growing population and jostling for lebensraum was one of the causes of the 1994 genocide, though the seeds were sowed a long time ago. The population comprises three ethnic groups: the Hutu, Tutsi and Twa (a forest-dwelling pygmy people and Rwanda's earliest inhabitants, forming a tiny minority).  Germany colonised in 1884 as part of German East Africa, and Belgium invaded in 1916. Each ruled through existing Tutsi kings and the Hutu population revolted in 1959, massacring numerous Tutsi and ultimately establishing an independent, Hutu-dominated state in 1962. The Tutsi-led Rwandan Patriotic Front fought back from 1990 but social tensions erupted in April 1994 in a genocide, in which Hutu extremists killed 1m Tutsi and moderate Hutu in just a few weeks of civil war - 20% of the country's total population and 70% of the Tutsi then living in Rwanda.

[4] Rwanda itself is very very bumpy - "Land of a Thousand Hills" : the swishest place in town is the Hotel des Mille Collines, (famous for its brave Hutu manager who shielded many Tutsis, who otherwise would have perished).  


Not an easy place to get around in the heat so we stuck to the main areas this afternoon but we'll try to get about a bit more when we're back on the last day, especially to the Genocide Monument to the north of the city. 



Anyway, we had some fun and games with South African Airways on check-in at LHR, when they refused to accept that the onward flight from Joburg into Rwanda was a codeshare or to issue us with onward boarding passes at LHR; notwithstanding that, they were able to put our bag through to Kigali!! (I thought it politic not to point out the discrepancy lest they thought better of it and made us collect our bags at Joburg too).  First thing when we get on the RwandAir flight, of course,  "Welcome to flight xxx, codeshare SAA".  Ah well, at least we and the bag made it. 

Kigali looked nice from the air and, on arrival at our little hotel, we rested over a nice lunch - you'll be reassured that Duncan dived straight in to trying the local cuisine, with piquant chicken and an impressive portion of ugali (a solid porridge made of maize and eaten with meat and a thick soupy sauce).  Needless to say that little supper has been required.




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